Hom denim

Txij li thaum xyoo 1970s, denim tau dhau los ua ntau yam kev loj hlob hauv Suav teb thiab tau dhau los ua tus tsim khoom tseem ceeb ntawm denim hauv ntiaj teb. Ib tug loj tus naj npawb ntawm cov denim siab heev thiab denim khaub ncaws tuam txhab uas muag tau pib nyob rau hauv txoj kab nrog thoob ntiaj teb cov qauv nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus ntawm zoo thiab ntau yam, pib reversing lub tswv yim hais tias Suav denim khoom yog "tsawg kawg khoom" nyob rau hauv lub thoob ntiaj teb kev ua lag luam.

Txawm hais tias kev txhim kho thiab tsim cov khoom lag luam denim hauv Suav teb tau pib lig, lawv pib ntawm cov theem siab, nrog qhib-kawg spinning, tsis siv neeg winding, pob warp dyeing, thiab shuttleless looms (ntau tus rapiers, ua raws li qhov projectiles, thiab ces huab cua-dav hlau), hnyav-lub luag hauj lwm pre-shrinking xov machine thiab lwm yam khoom siv siab tshaj, yog li tsim cov kev mob zoo rau kev txhim kho denim ntau yam thiab txhim kho qib zoo. Txawm li cas los xij, rau lub sijhawm ntev, qee cov khoom siv nrog kev ua tau zoo thiab ua tiav cov haujlwm, xws li hluav taws xob dobby, ntau xim, tsis sib xws coiling, hloov ceev ntawm ntau yam thiab tsis siv neeg ua haujlwm ntawm rapier looms, tsis tau them nyiaj txaus, ua rau muaj kev hloov pauv sai. pov tseg ntawm kev ua haujlwm. Qhov xwm txheej no yuav tsum tau daws sai sai txhawm rau txhawm rau ua haujlwm zoo dua rau kev txhim kho ntau yam, txhim kho kev ua haujlwm zoo thiab kev ua haujlwm ntawm kev ua haujlwm.

Xyoob

Thaum tsim slub yarns nrog cov xov tooj sib txawv, sib txawv slub thickness (piv rau hauv paus yarn), slub ntev thiab suab, slub yarns yog muab nyob rau hauv ib tug warp los yog ib tug weft thiab warp thiab weft cov lus qhia. Thaum cov yarns ib txwm muaj qhov sib txawv ntawm qhov sib txawv kom zoo sib xws thiab teeb tsa, ntau hom slub denim tuaj yeem tsim tau. Tom qab cov tsoos tsho ntxuav thiab ua tiav, ntau yam hazy lossis clearer denim style tuaj yeem tsim. , txais tos los ntawm cov neeg siv khoom nrog cov kev xav tau ntawm tus kheej. Yuav luag tag nrho cov slub thaum ntxov denim siv lub nplhaib slub xov paj, vim hais tias nws muaj peev xwm tig slub xov paj nrog luv luv, me me suab thiab kuj siab ceev, uas yog ib qho yooj yim los tsim ib tug denser embellishment nyhuv ntawm daim ntaub nto, thiab nws yog ib qho yooj yim mus use. Lub warp xyoob pob qij txha yog cov tseem ceeb. Nrog rau txoj kev loj hlob ntawm kev lag luam cov neeg siv khoom xav tau, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog ob txoj kev slub denim khoom nrog weft elasticity yog nrov heev hauv kev lag luam hauv tsev thiab txawv teb chaws. Rau qee yam, tsuav yog lub koom haum tsim tau zoo, ib qho ntau yam ntawm lub nplhaib-spun yarn tuaj yeem siv rau hauv qhov kev taw qhia warp, thiab ib qho kev faib ua feem ntawm slub yarn nyob rau hauv cov kev taw qhia weft kuj tuaj yeem ua tiav cov nyhuv ntawm slub denim hauv ob qho tib si warp thiab weft cov lus qhia.

Ntiv nplhaib

Nrog rau kev txhim kho thiab siv cov txheej txheem tshiab cov cuab yeej xws li kev kub ceev lub nplhaib spinning, pob loj, zoo interlinking, thiab knotless yarn, lub shortcomings ntawm luv xov xov ntev, tsis tshua muaj efficiency efficiency, thiab ntau knots ntawm ntxhib suav xov paj tau raug daws. Qhov xwm txheej uas cov xov paj denim hloov los ntawm cov xov paj cua yog hloov pauv sai, thiab cov xov paj xov paj tau rov qab los. Vim hais tias lub nplhaib-spun denim yog qhov zoo tshaj rau qee yam khoom ntawm cov xov paj cua, xws li tes xav, drape, lub zog tsim kua muag, thiab lwm yam, thiab kuj vim tias tib neeg puas siab puas ntsws rov qab los rau qhov xwm txheej thiab nrhiav kev cuam tshuam ntawm tus thawj tsim denim style, ntau dua. Qhov laj thawj tseem ceeb yog tias lub nplhaib Tom qab lub tsho denim spinning yog polished thiab ua tiav, qhov saum npoo yuav pom qhov zoo li lub ntsej muag zoo li, uas yog nyob rau hauv txoj kab nrog cov kev xav tau ntawm tus kheej niaj hnub no cov ris tsho denim. Lub nplhaib slub tuaj yeem muab spun rau hauv luv thiab denser slubs, uas tseem txhawb txoj kev loj hlob ntawm lub nplhaib denim.

Weft elasticity

Kev siv spandex elastic yarn tau tsim cov denim ntau yam rau hauv daim teb tshiab, uas tuaj yeem ua rau cov denim hnav nyob ze ntawm lub cev thiab xis nyob, thiab tom qab ntawd muab cov slub lossis xim sib txawv los ua kom cov khoom denim haum rau kev zam thiab kev xav tau ntawm tus kheej. . kev loj hlob muaj peev xwm. Lub elastic elongation feem ntau yog 20 feem pua ​​​​rau 40 feem pua. Qhov luaj li cas ntawm elastic elongation nyob ntawm tus qauv tsim ntawm cov ntaub. Qhov me me ntawm warp thiab weft weave nruj ntawm lub loom, qhov elasticity ntau dua. Qhov siab dua qhov nruj ntawm weft elastic yarn, me dua elasticity, thiab weft nruj nreem ncav cuag ib theem, thiab txawm tias qhov poob ntawm elasticity yuav tshwm sim. Tsis tas li ntawd, qhov teeb meem zoo tshaj plaws ntawm cov ntaub npuag elastic denim tiav yog tias qhov shrinkage nyob rau hauv cov kev taw qhia weft loj heev, feem ntau ntau tshaj 10 feem pua, thiab txawm tias siab li 20 feem pua ​​​​hauv qee kis. Qhov tsis ruaj khov ntawm daim ntaub dav ua rau muaj teeb meem loj rau kev tsim cov khaub ncaws. Qhov kev daws teeb meem yog kom tsis txhob ua kom lub elastic elongation loj dhau thaum lub sij hawm tsim khoom, feem ntau noj 20 feem pua ​​​​mus rau 30 feem pua, uas yog, kom tswj tau ib qho warp thiab weft cov ntaub so ntswg nruj, thiab nyob rau hauv lub sij hawm ua ntej shrinking xov, txoj kev ntawm tsim nyog nce. qhov nro yog saws los ua kom cov ntaub shrinks zoo heev, thiaj li yuav tau txais ib tug qis residual shrinkage tus nqi nyob rau hauv lub weft kev taw qhia ntawm cov tiav ntaub; Lwm qhov kev daws teeb meem yog kom sov-teeb lub denim elastic tom qab ua ntej shrinking tiav. Nyob rau hauv no txoj kev, ib tug ntau uniform ntaub dav thiab ib tug ntau ruaj khov thiab qis weft shrinkage yuav tau, uas yuav ua tau raws li qhov yuav tsum tau ntawm tsoos tsho ua thiab ntau lawm.

chromatography

Txhawm rau kom cov xim thiab ntxoov ntxoo ntawm indigo denim ntau yam. Piv txwv li, indigo over-dyeing sulfur dub, indigo tshaj-dyeing sulfur nyom ntsuab, sulfur dub ntsuab, sulfur xiav, thiab lwm yam, kom tau raws li tus neeg xav tau kev pab ntawm lub khw. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, denim ntau lawm cov nroj tsuag muaj lawv tus kheej tshiab ntau yam ntawm denim nrog cov yam ntxwv patented, thiaj li los txhim kho kev sib tw ntawm kev ua lag luam. Nyob rau hauv no hais txog, nws yuav tsum tau muab sau tseg hais tias lub concentration ntawm leej niam cawv yuav tsum tau tswj kom ntau li ntau tau los tiv thaiv lub overflow ntawm cov dye cawv, uas yuav ua rau cov khib nyiab ntawm dyestuffs thiab nthuav cov pa phem rau ib puag ncig.

xim tshwj xeeb

Vim tias cov khaub ncaws ua los ntawm super indigo dyed lossis ntxiv qhov sib sib zog nqus indigo dyed denim tuaj yeem tau txais cov txiaj ntsig tshwj xeeb ntawm cov nplua nuj thiab ci xim tom qab sib tsoo thiab ntxuav, nws tau txais tos los ntawm cov neeg siv khoom. "Super indigo" dyed denim muaj ob yam ntxwv: qhov dyeing qhov tob yog qhov tshwj xeeb sib sib zog nqus thiab xim nrawm rau kev ntxuav yog qhov tshwj xeeb zoo. Tus qub yog hais txog tus nqi ntawm indigo dye dyed rau ntawm cov xov paj hauv ib chav tsev qhov hnyav (feem ntau qhia raws li qhov feem pua ​​​​ntawm cov dye nyob rau hauv qhov hnyav qhuav ntawm cov xov paj, hu ua dyeing qhov tob feem pua) yog qhov loj, piv txwv li, cov pa. denim warp xov paj indigo dyeing qhov tob yog 1 feem pua ​​​​rau 3 feem pua. , thiab "super indigo" dyeing qhov tob yuav tsum ncav cuag ntau tshaj 4 feem pua ​​​​ua ntej nws tuaj yeem hu ua super indigo lossis ntxiv indigo tob. Qhov kawg txhais tau hais tias "super indigo" dyed denim yuav tsum tau rov ua dua sib tsoo ntau dua 3 teev, thiab nws cov xim tseem tuaj yeem ncav cuag lossis tshaj cov xim tob ntawm cov pa dyed denim yam tsis muaj kev sib tsoo, thiab nws cov ntxoov ntxoo muaj zog dua li ntawm pa dyed denim. Ntau brighter. Rau indigo dyed denim, cov xim ceev rau kev ntxuav yog nyob ntawm qhov kev nkag mus ntawm cov xim rau cov tub ntxhais ntawm cov xov paj, es tsis yog qhov ceev ceev ntawm cov dye nws tus kheej (qhov indigo ntub sib tsoo ceev tsuas yog qib 1), uas yog, qhov nkag mus ntawm cov tub ntxhais kawm ntawv zoo dua, qhov zoo dua cov xim nrawm rau kev sib tsoo.

Nyob rau hauv lub dhau los, lub thiaj li hu ua "indigo dyeing sai sai ntxuav txheej txheem" ​​yog tiag tiag nyob rau hauv lub xov tooj dyeing txheej txheem, lub indigo dye yog txhob txwm ua rau ntiav heev rau lub hauv paus ntawm fiber, yog li ntawd thaum lub denim tsoos tsho tau ntxuav thiab ua tiav, nto ntawm cov xov paj yog heev nyias. Tom qab txheej txheej ntawm cov xim yog hauv av, ntau cov xov paj dawb raug nthuav tawm, uas ua rau cov xim ploj sai sai, thiaj li ua tiav cov nyhuv ntawm fading tam sim ntawd tom qab lub sij hawm luv luv ntawm kev sib tsoo thiab ntxuav. Cov txheej txheem dyeing "super indigo" yog qhov tsis sib xws, yuav tsum muaj qhov tshwj xeeb zoo ntawm cov tub ntxhais nkag mus rau cov xim, kom cov ris tsho denim tuaj yeem tau txais cov xim sib sib zog nqus thiab ci tom qab sib tsoo thiab ntxuav.

Txij li thaum dyeing qhov tob ntawm "super indigo" dyed denim cov khoom yog ntau tshaj 60 feem pua ​​​​siab dua li cov kev cai denim dyeing, indigo concentration ntawm cov tshuaj dyeing kuj yuav nce exponentially, txawm mus txog 3-4g / L, nws yog ua tau kom tau qhov tob Intense xim. Nyob rau hauv txoj kev no, viscosity ntawm cov tshuaj zas zas nce thiab cov kua dej ua rau tsis zoo, uas cuam tshuam rau kev nkag mus ntawm leuco dye, thiab txo cov xim ceev ntawm cov ntaub denim rau kev ntxhua, uas tsis tuaj yeem ua tau raws li qhov kawg qhov xav tau ntawm cov khaub ncaws ntau lawm. Yog li ntawd, qee lub tuam txhab tau txais kev tsim qauv ntawm kev ua kom qhov tob ntawm dyeing dua, kom cov concentration ntawm indigo hauv cov tshuaj dyeing nce ntxiv, thiab kev nkag mus tau zoo dua, yog li lub voj voog vicious yog tsim, thiab cov kev cai ntawm "super indigo" xim tseem tsis tau ntsib. Qhov siab dua qhov concentration ntawm indigo nyob rau hauv cov tshuaj zas xim, qhov hnyav dua lub teeb liab ntawm cov khoom dyed thiab cov xim tsaus dua, thiab tsis muaj "super indigo" nyhuv. Qhov teeb meem no yog daws los ntawm kev nce cov dyeing kab. Piv txwv li, nce tus naj npawb ntawm dyeing channel mus rau 8 lossis txawm tias 10 channel tsis tsuas yog nce nqi peev thiab kev siv cov khoom siv dyeing, tab sis kuj ua rau muaj kev nyuaj ntawm kev ua haujlwm, thiab ua rau muaj kuab paug rau ib puag ncig. Txoj hauv kev zoo tshaj los daws qhov kev tsis sib haum xeeb no yog kom tsim nyog txo qhov kev faib ua feem ntawm hydrosulfite los yog caustic soda, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog kev tswj cov nyiaj ntawm caustic soda, kom PH tus nqi ntawm cov dej cawv yog ruaj khov ntawm 11 thiab 12, tus nqi dyeing yog qhov. siab tshaj thiab cov xim yog ruaj khov. Tsim nyog txo cov dyeing nro ntawm daim ntawv warp, thiaj li kom tau ib tug zoo dua "super indigo" dyeing nyhuv.